LED technology is being used to treat a variety of skin problems including eczema, acne, psoriasis and sun damage in a medical setting, the BBC reports.
But the market for home LED devices is poised to become a huge industry, with masks and other devices available at prices between £40 and £1,500.
This technology uses light-emitting diodes (LEDs) to stimulate skin cells with repeated exposure.
LED mask manufacturers claim these devices can help with acne, sun damage and fine lines, but is this true?
The global LED market is expected to reach €700 million by 2032 - which is almost double the estimated value of technologies such as Dyson Airwrap over the same period.
How does LED therapy work?
According to Dr Jonathan Kentley, consultant dermatologist, LED technology works by the skin absorbing light energy, which causes cellular changes through a process called photobiomodulation (PBM).
"This stimulates the formation of new blood vessels and skin cells, as well as the production of more collagen and elastin. PBM is also used to treat acne as it has an anti-inflammatory effect and reduces oiliness of the skin," he explains to the BBC.
Recently, a comprehensive study of PBM found that more human clinical trials are needed to fully understand how this technology works.
NASA began studying the effect of LED light on cell regeneration in the 1990s, and medical LED devices have already been used by dermatologists for decades, Dr. Kentley notes.
But home LED masks have only been available to consumers for about five years and cost significantly less than medical devices.
The main differences between professional and commercial LED devices are the intensity of the light, the number of LEDs, and the distance to the skin when in use.
"Visually interesting", but are they effective?
According to Dr. Justine Kluck, a dermatologist specializing in acne treatment, home LED masks "look promising," but manufacturers speculate on their effectiveness.
"I don't believe clinical trials have been conducted to show whether home LED masks offer the same dose of therapy as devices in clinics or hospitals. We don't have enough studies with large numbers of participants and long-term tests to be sure of the results. So I believe the benefits of these masks are probably modest," she said.
The skincare market accounts for almost half of global sales in the beauty industry and is expected to grow faster than the haircare, makeup and fragrance sectors.
This trend is reinforced by Generation Z (born between 1995-2009) and Generation Alpha (born after 2010), whose interest in beauty care is fuelled by social media.
"I see that interest in at-home beauty treatments has grown significantly since COVID-19," says Dr. Kluck.
She believes the "visually interesting" effect of LED masks makes them an attractive product to sell online.
"When people see others wearing red LED masks while watching TV, it arouses curiosity. In every other consultation in the last six months I've been asked about LED masks."
Hundreds of videos can be found on social networks like TikTok where users show their results after using an LED mask.
What are users saying?
Natalie O'Neill, 29, says she started using an LED mask "out of curiosity," not to treat acne or any other problem.
"I noticed a change in my skin after a few weeks and felt it prevented breakouts very well."
She adds that the mask helped even out her complexion and fade scars faster.
O'Neill stresses that she is not paid to promote a particular product and that she uses the mask as a supplement to her regular skincare routine.
"Clinical LED therapy can't be compared directly to at-home masks, but I'm aware of it and have realistic expectations."
One of the reasons LED masks are so popular is that they are easy to use, making them accessible to more consumers.
The future of LED masks
Lawrence Newman, CEO of CurrentBody, whose at-home LED mask is one of the world's best sellers, believes the technology will become increasingly popular.
He began selling professional equipment to clinics more than 25 years ago, and in 2009 began developing a home LED mask, which he launched a decade later.
"We see people using it for 10 minutes and immediately afterwards the skin looks fresher. He says women are increasingly turning to non-invasive cosmetic procedures and looking for alternatives to Botox and fillers.
Newman says the masks he sells use the same technology as medical devices, meeting minimum wavelength standards of light.
He stresses that the home LED device market is still in its early stages, but consumers are beginning to realize its benefits and limitations.
"It's a big investment"
Dr. Kentley explains that PBM is considered a safe technology, even at higher intensity levels.
However, he cautions that more research is needed to fully understand the mechanism of action.
"Many of the studies are small, not standardized, and often funded by manufacturers, making it difficult to draw clear conclusions."
He advises buyers to choose certified high-density LED devices for more effective light penetration into the skin.
"It's a serious amount of money that can be put into a good skincare routine or effective treatment if the problem is more serious, such as acne, in a good prescription regimen and lifestyle changes, but it's very unlikely that the product will be enough on its own," he warned. | BGNES